Wine Basics – When is a Wine Ready to Drink

Posted on August 19, 2012 by admin

It can be really hard to tell when a wine is ready to drink.  Even experts get it wrong frequently.  What I have put together in this post are some general guidelines that can help.

Rosé is one of the easiest wines to know.  Almost all of them are ready to drink when they are released.  Very few of them improve with age.  So drink them when you get them or in a year or two at most.

Most white wines are ready to drink when they are released but some will improve with age.  Rieslings and Chardonnays frequently improved with age.  Some Rieslings can last decades.  I have had 15 year old white Burgundy’s (made with Chardonnay) that were fantastic. In my experience white wines that have a bit of residual sugar, such as those from Alsace, also tend to age well.  That said, even within these varieties most white wines are made to be opened within five or so years.

There are some white wines that are best within one to three years.  Viognier is known to be a bit delicate for aging.  Most Sauvignon Blanc’s do not benefit from aging.   Almost all of the Italian white wines are made to be drunk fairly young.

Red wines are much trickier.  Some are ready to drink when released but even than they may benefit from a few years more age.  Many reds are released before they are ready to drink.  In general the more tannic varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Nebbiolo need some additional time.  Softer varieties such as Merlot are frequently made for faster consumption.  It used to be recommended that wines with higher alcohol levels, 14% and up, needed to age.  With the steady rise in alcohol content over the last several years that is no longer a good gauge.  It is true that more alcohol does make it less likely that a wine will go bad if it is aged.  It does not mean it will improve.

Dessert wines such as Sauternes and ice wines tend to age well.  Fortified wines such as Port and Sherry keep well for very long periods of time but don’t normally improve with time.

A quick note; and here I am treading on thin ice, inexpensive wines are more likely to have been bottled with the intent of quick consumption than more expensive wines.  That said, many inexpensive red wines are released too young.  If you have the ability to store them properly, they can mature into wines that make you congratulate yourself for having bought them at such a low price.

One of the pleasures of wine is to buy a case and drink the wine over time experiencing the changes that a wine goes through.  The beginning of the case may be too young, and the end over the hill. Still you will gain the experience of knowing how a wine matures.  With a little luck you will have had the majority of the wine at its peak.

Enjoy.

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A Nice Glass of Wine

Posted on July 25, 2012 by admin

I recently attended a tasting of wines from Piedmont, Italy.  Piedmont is the region where the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco come from.  Interestingly, most of the wines I was drawn to were from the “lesser” varieties, Dolcetto, Barbara, and some blends.  They were simply nice glasses of wine.

Most of the wine press still seems to be fixed on finding and discussing “great” wines.   The conventional wisdom on what is a great wine is always changing, but that still it their focus.  Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy and appreciate great wines.  That said, most of the wines I drink aren’t “great wines”.  Most of the time I am not looking to drink a great wine.

A great wine demands your attention.  Carefully matching them with food can be important too.  Frequently what I am looking for is something to drink in the evening while talking to family and friends or while eating a normal dinner.  I want something that compliments what I am doing or eating, not something that takes center stage.  That doesn’t mean I want something insipid.  What I want is a nice glass of wine.  Luckily, much of the wine made these days falls into that category.  I think it is time for more attention to be paid to them.  So let’s have a toast to a nice glass of wine, enjoy.

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Wine Basics – Returning a Bottle

Posted on June 28, 2012 by admin

In response to the post on bad wines http://thewinepopulist.com/?p=149 a reader asked about the etiquette of returning a bottle at a restaurant.  Here goes.  There are two points when you might return a wine, before it is opened or after it is opened.  More times than I have gotten bad bottles, I have been served the wrong bottle.  So, take a look, is it the wine you ordered?  Pay particular attention to the year (vintage) on the bottle.  Is it the same as on the list?  If not, it’s not the wine you ordered.  If the wine is different in any detail, feel free to tell the server.  They should be happy to take it back.

Particularly if what is different from what you ordered is the year, you may be told that they no longer have the year you ordered.  Rather than saying that the change is OK, feel free to reject it.  You should be served what you ordered.  You may feel the vintage is not that important.  Sometimes it is very important.  If someone tried to serve me a ’96 Chianti Classico instead of a ’97, I would be upset.  ’96 was a pretty poor year.  ’97 was a very good one.  For some wines it isn’t that important.  For example, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc tend to be very consistent from year to year.  To me, you still have been served something different from what you ordered and your acceptance of it should be conditional.  Rather than saying “that’s OK”, you may want to say something like “I’ll give it a try”.  That way if you don’t like it, you are well within your rights to return it.

As mentioned in the post on bad wines, you also should look for signs of a bad wine such as the wine being warm to the touch, the cork being pushed part way out, the color being wrong etc.  There is no reason to open such a wine.  Just return it.

After a wine is opened you can reject it for being a bad bottle; but, what if you just don’t like it?  This gets a bit trickier.  Some restaurants have a policy that they will take back any bottle for any reason.  I applaud them.  If that is the case, the server is likely to notice that you don’t care for it.  If they offer to take it back, feel free to accept.  Please remember this when it comes time to tip.

If you are not is such a place than I find myself splitting hairs.  If the wine was recommended to you by the staff and you don’t like it, you should tell the server.  They should take it back.  If you came up with it on your own, well I think you are on your own.  Then again, wait until you have had it with some food, or it has been open a while.  You may find you like it after all.

One final note:  There is no reason why only one person at a table should taste the wine.  I am not saying that at a table of six it is OK for everyone have a taste and empty half the bottle in the process.  If you are unsure, why not ask someone at the table to taste?  Feel free to ask the server too.  Good restaurants are more interested in you enjoying yourself, becoming a repeat customer, and telling others how good the place is, than in selling a single bottle of wine.

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Wine Basics – Bad Wines

Posted on June 19, 2012 by admin

A basic tenant of my philosophy of wine is that if you like a wine it is a good wine for you.  This rather begs the question, “What is a bad wine?”   For me a bad wine isn’t a wine I don’t like.  A bad wine is a wine that either through mistreatment or bad wine making technique has something specifically wrong with it.

Bad wines don’t occur anywhere near as often as some people say, but they do happen.  Knowing a wine is bad, rather than just a wine you don’t like, has a couple of advantages.  First you can return it.  Many people getting a bad wine will suffer in silence when they should return it.  Knowing that a wine is bad and what is wrong with it can make people more likely to return the bad wine.  By the way, you can return a bad wine to a wine store, not just at a restaurant.  Any store, or restaurant, that won’t take a bad bottle back is one you shouldn’t patronize.

The second advantage of being able to recognize a bad wine is that you know the wine is bad and not that you just don’t like it.  If you buy a bottle of wine, say an Orvieto, and it is oxidized (something that happens to Orvieto more often than it should) you can say “this is a bad bottle” rather than “I don’t like Orvieto” and denying yourself the pleasure of Orvieto in the future.

I can think of six ways a wine can be bad.  They can be cooked, oxidized, infected, light struck, dirty or adulterated.  Be aware that a wine can have more than one problem at the same time.

Cooked wines are wines that have been subject to too much heat in storage or transit.  When white wines are cooked the most obvious problem is they almost always get oxidized which will be discussed below.  When red wines get cooked they may or may not get oxidized.  What they do get is the taste of cooked fruit.  This is not the bright jammy taste that some wines such as Zinfendel’s can have.  It is a dull flavor, more like old prunes.  Sometimes you can tell a wine has been cooked without even opening it.  When wine expands from heat, it can push the cork part of the way out of the bottle.  Also, it doesn’t hurt to pay attention to the temperature of the bottle when you get it.  I almost always touch a bottle of wine when it is brought over for me to look at in a restaurant before it is opened.  If it is warm, I will send it back.

Oxygen is a tricky thing with wine.  All wine needs some oxygen but if you get too much the wine goes bad.  Oxidation is probably the most common cause of bad wines.  It can be the result of poor wine making or improper storage.  Oxidation is particularly common when getting wines by the glass.  Oxidized white wines get a characteristic smell that I think of as being like paint thinner.  With time they can turn anywhere from a light yellow to orange or brownish yellow in color.  Knowing this only helps if you know what color the wine should be as some very good white wines are fairly yellow.  They leave also a distinctly bad after taste when you swallow them.

Oxidized red wines are less common than white and harder to pick out.  Oxidized red wines tend to get brown in color and be less clear.  Be aware that older wines can get a bit brown but they should not be less clear.  The flavor tends to be dull and they have a bad after taste much like that in a white wine.  Some lighter red wines will have some of the paint thinner taste found in whites.

Infected wines are just what they sound like; something is growing in them that shouldn’t be.  They are the result of something going wrong at the winery.  Corked wines are the most common form of infection.  Corked wines have been closed with a cork that has a bacterial infection.  Some people describe the smell and flavor as being like wet newspaper.  To me it is like cork.  Don’t ever let anyone tell you that a wine is “only a little corked” and that “if you leave the wine open the smell will go away.”  A corked wine is a bad wine and should be returned.  Other forms of infection are less common but taste even worse.  Acebetor bacteria turn wine into vinegar.  Other molds and bacteria can make wine smell and taste like a moldy basement or a porta-potty on a hot day.  Send them back.

Light struck wines are not very common and pretty much only happen to white wines.  They are the result of the wine being left exposed to sunlight over a long time.  It is most common in wines that are bottled in clear or green bottles.  Brown bottles provide some protection.  Light struck bottles are most often also oxidized.  Light struck wines have undergone a light induced chemical reaction.  They have a pronounced skunky smell and flavor.

Dirty wines are the result poor sanitation at the winery.  They are often also oxidized and/or infected.  They have no clarity and taste dirty.  Be aware, I am not talking about wines with sediment.  Sediment is a natural part of wine.  You should take care not to get it in your glass, but if you drink enough wine, you will get some.

If you read old books on wine you will find the list of things wine has been adulterated with over history are both shocking and funny.  Adulteration is much less common than it used to be and you can easily drink wine all your life without ever tasting an adulterated wine.

The most common problem with something being added to wine is too much sulfur.  Sulfur is useful thing for wine makers.  It is used as an antiseptic and is a powerful anti-oxidant.  When properly used, in very small quantities, it is harmless and beneficial.  If too much sulfur is used a wine will have the smell of rotten eggs.  Return it.

A quick note on sulfur:  There are sulfur compounds present in all wines, even wines made without it being added by the wine maker.  Some people are sensitive to these compounds and get headaches after drinking wine.  While some people have been able to search out wines that have low enough sulfur content (that sounds like painful research), most of these unfortunate people can not drink wine.

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Castilla – La Mancha

Posted on May 28, 2012 by admin

Last week I attended a seminar and tasting on the wines of the Castilla – La Mancha region of Spain.  The region is in south-central Spain kind of wraps around Madrid with most of the wine regions being south of the city.  Wine has been produced there for well over two  thousand years. The reputation, however, has fallen seriously over the last hundred years.  Most people have long regarded the area as being a producer of cheap plonk and alcoholic bulk wines.  Winemakers in the area are working hard to change that impression but it is still very much an emerging area for good wine.  That is exciting for someone like me who is interested in trying new wines.  That most of them are quite inexpensive is a real bonus.

The seminar, led by Doug Frost, an eminent sommelier, was interesting and informative.  He discussed the area’s history and climate and gave a brief description of the regions nine major wine areas.  I particularly liked his emphasis on enjoying the wines you drink.  I intend to buy his book on Spanish wines.  Look for a review here some time later.

There were twenty-three producers at the tasting and unfortunately I did not get to all of them.  Even when I don’t swallow I can’t objectively taste that many wines in a few hours.  The wines I did taste covered a wide range of styles and grape varieties, both native and international.  This makes sense as it is the biggest wine producing district (by volume) in the world.

Here are a few highlights.  A quick note first: many of these wines have limited distribution and can be hard to find.

Viña Cerron is a family run, organic, winery in the southeast of the region.  I tasted their 2010 Remordimento Red, a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Syrah at the seminar.  It was my favorite of the wines at the seminar.  It was very well balanced with enough acidity and tannin to make me think it would age well but with a nice level of fruit (I tasted blackberry) that let me enjoy it now.  There were some interesting herbal aromas too.

Their 2009 Rabia was one of the best wines of the day.  It is made from Petit Verdot.  Petit Verdot is a minor variety in Bordeaux.  It’s funny, Bordeaux is the most written about wine area in the world.  Petit Verdot is part of the blend in some of its most prestigious wines.  Yet you hardly ever find anything written about the variety.  The most I could find was a passing reference that it was added for color and tannins but was being used less and less as it requires a longer growing period to ripen than other varieties.  Based on this one event, Castilla – La Mancha has taken the variety as its own.  This makes sense given the longer growing season in the area.

So what does Petit Verdot taste like?  Well this one tasted a lot like a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend.  It definitely had some of the flavor of violets and black currants that are looked for in Cabernet Sauvignon.  It also had the flavors of berries and plums as well as the big body of a Syrah.  The wine was well balanced and had plenty of tannins.  I really enjoyed it but would love to try it again in another five years.

The winery Dehesa Carrascal provided a very nice range of wines.  Their Tudon’s Syrah Rosado, 2009 was one of the nicest rose’s I have ever had.  It had plenty of fruit and acidity that you would expect but there also were mineral notes that I would look for in a good white wine.  It’s clear red color made it a very pretty wine too.  There was none of the orange tint that so often indicates oxidation in rose’s.   They too made a Petit Verdot, Tudon’s Petit Verdot Criaza, 2008 showed that the area is on to something with this variety.  It was a bit less fruit forward than the previous one I tasted but that was not a flaw, just a different style.  I would love to drink it while eating grilled lamb.

Garnacha, known as Grenache in France and the US, is a native Spanish grape that spread through France and Italy long before it became a player in many new world wines.  It is the principal grape in Chateaux Nuef Du Pape and in most Cotes Du Rhone.  This one could hold its head up in that company.  Once again it was not a fruit forward wine but it was very well balanced with a long finish (after taste).  I tasted it a few times, something I didn’t do with most of the wines that day.  Each time I tasted it I found more to it.

One of the most interesting wines was their desert wine offering, Dulcemar Garnacha Tintoria.  This wine is made from Garnacha using a variant on the ice-wine technique much used in northern cold climates.  The technique freezes the grapes to concentrate the sugars and flavors.  I liked this wine a lot but it didn’t taste like an ice wine to me.  It reminded me of some Italian wines made with using the passito method of drying grapes on mats.  It had darker, coffee, toffee and chocolate flavors.  This wine is available in some parts of the US.

Another winery that had a good range was Bodegas Los Aljibes.  Once again the Petit Verdot, a 2008, was very nice.  They also had a Cabernet Franc based wine, a 2007, that was very flavorful with raspberry and currant flavors nicely balanced with some herbal notes and a peppery finish.  People frequently drink Cabernet Franc based wines fairly young as light quaffing wines.  This one was five years old and still tasted young and vital.

I tasted two wines from Bodegas Y Viñedos Sanchez Mulitero and they both wowed me.  The Viña Consolación, 2004 is a Cabernet Sauvignon that had everything you could want in one.  If this was made in California, the wine press would be falling all over themselves to praise it and turn it into a cult wine.  I have not found a US source for it but if I do I will stocking up.  Their Syrah based wine, Magnificus, 2006 was, if possible, better.  With a name like that, my inclination was to look for faults.  I didn’t find any.

It is a shame that these wines are still unknown here in the US and have very limited availability.  I will be keeping an eye on the area and tasting as many of its wines as I can find.

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New Zealand Wine Fair

Posted on May 16, 2012 by admin

I had the opportunity to attend the New Zealand Wine Fair this past Monday at City Winery in New York.  I am no expert on New Zealand wines.  I have tasted many examples of Sauvignon Blanc for which they are most known.  I knew little, however, of other varieties, vineyard areas, or trends in wine making.  I still am no expert but I do know more.  That alone would make the event a success in my book.  Getting  to try a lot of nice wines and meet some interesting and informative wine makers made it a real winner.

In brief, New Zealand is a nation of islands in the Southern Pacific.  The two major islands are the North and South Islands.  Most of the wine regions have what is called a maritime climate, cool and a bit on the wet side.  The Central Otago district on the southern end of the South Island has a more continental climate (i.e., dry hot summers and cooler wetter winters).  For more information, here is a link to the web site for the New Zealand Wine Growers: http://www.nzwine.com/

I tasted around 35 wines and there was only one I didn’t care for.  Even then, I can’t say it was a bad wine, just not my taste.  Rather than go through each of the wines here I will pick out the wines I most enjoyed.  Be aware that I started tasting white wines and by the time I got to the reds I felt my palate was more than a bit exhausted.  So the shortage of reds on the list has more to do with me than the quality of the red wines available.

The first wine that impressed me was a Chardonnay from Babich wines, their Hawkes Bay 2010.  The wine was cold fermented in steel so it did not have the big oaky buttery flavors made popular by California and Australian Chardonnays.  It had plenty of fruit flavors but a nice balance of acidity and some mineral flavor at the end.  The suggested retail price of around $14 makes it a real buy.

From there I moved on to the table for Forrest Wines.  The entire range I tasted was very good and I am sorry I didn’t get back to taste their desert wine.  The suggested price range of from around $17 to $28 was very reasonable.

They had two Sauvignon Blanc’s The Forrest Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 had all of the bright fruit flavors that are typical of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc but there was more subtly as well as a nice balance of minerals.  It felt softer in the mouth than I expected and it had a nice long finish.

The Forrest The Doctor’s Sauvignon Blanc, Marlboro, 2011 was a very interesting wine.  The alcohol content had been kept down to 9.5%.  While a while ago a white wine at 9.5% would have been common, they have become almost an endangered species these days.  The wine was lighter with a bit less fruit than the previous one.  There was a nice balance of acidity and minerals.  This would be a great aperitif wine.  I also would enjoy drinking it on a hot lazy summer day.

The Forrest Pinot Noir, Marlboro, 2010 was a very nice Pinot Noir with plenty of the blackberry and raspberry fruit I have come to expect from “new world” Pinot Noir but balanced with woods and earthy flavors.  I would like to taste this one again in a few years when it had time to mature a bit.  I think it would be even better.

Another winery whose entire range impressed me was Staet Landt Vineyard.  The standouts within the range were two Sauvignon Blanc’s and the nicest Riesling of the day.

They had two different vintages of their Staete Landt Annabel Sauvignon Blanc, Rapaura, Marlborough, the 2010 and the 2011.  If I had to explain what got people excited about New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, I could hand them a glass of the 2011.  It had multiple layers of fruit.  At first I tasted the expected lemon and grapefruit flavors but quickly others joined in, including peach, apricot and pineapple.  It was all balanced with good acidity and a nice mineral finish.

The 2010 was also very good but rather different.  It had a much more creamy feel in the mouth and the flavors were a bit less upfront.  It still was clearly a Sauvignon Blanc, just a different take on it.  I could see this working very well where I might otherwise think to match food with a Chardonnay but wanted something different.

For the Staete Landt Dry Riesling, Rapaura, Marlborough, 2010, my first comment was “Wow!”  This was a rich complex wine with a beautiful balance.  I will seek out this wine.

I also wanted to mention the Hawkes Bay Chardonnay, 2011, from Distant Land Vintners.  It was definitely in the big fruit forward style that I think of as “new world”.  It is not a style I typically care for.  This one was very well done with balance and elegance.  At a suggested retail price of around $16 it put many more famous offerings in that style from California and Australia to shame.

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Wine For The Fortnight – Alfred Basely Champagne But NV

Posted on May 11, 2012 by admin

Lately there have been more and more different Champagnes showing up in the market.  This is a good thing.  Recently I had one I had not tasted before, Alfred Basely Champagne But NV.  I liked it a lot and at under $30 a bottle it is quite reasonably priced.  Alfred Basely is a smaller producer based near Epernay.  I couldn’t find out if the house grows all of their own grapes or buys some.  Information on the blend was not available but I suspect it is weighted on the Pinot Noir side.  The wine has a bit bigger body than that of most of the wines from the big houses with some fruit, lots of minerals and a bit of a citrus zip at the end.  It struck me as being a particularly food friendly Champagne.

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Wine for the Fortnight – Finca El Origen Gran Reserva Malbec, 2009

Posted on April 15, 2012 by admin

Last night some friends brought over one of the nicest Argentine Malbecs I have had in a while, and I like Malbec.  Finca El Origen Gran Reserva Malbec, 2009, had all the things I like about Malbec, lots of fruit and earthy flavors, tannins and a long finish.  It had none of the flaws that they can have, too much fruit, not enough acidity, over whelming alcohol.  This one was very well balanced with plenty of acidity to make it go very well with the lamb chops we were having.  I think it when better than the Cote Du Rhone I had chosen.  One of the great things about sharing wines with friends is that not only do you try wines you would not otherwise of tasted but they have good memories associated with them too.  Thanks Ian and Rita.

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“A Wine Collector’s Dream House” – A Rant

Posted on March 19, 2012 by admin

An article in the April 2012, edition of Food & Wine magazine got my blood pressure up.  At first I was going to try and ignore it.  Then I thought, “Why not write about it?”  So here goes:  The article titled “A Wine Collector’s Dream House” (http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/home-design-ideas-a-wine-collectors-dream-house) starts with the quote “If wine is something you enjoy so much, why put it in the basement?”  The quote is from an architect Paul Masi.   For a “wine collecting” client, he designed a 1,000 bottle wine storage unit that is set at a house’s entryway.  At least one wall of the unit is glass and it is backlit.

So what got my blood pressure up about that?  Well first people keep wine in a cellar because that is where it is safest.  One thing that is important for long term storage of wine is protection from light.  Light causes photo-chemical reactions with the organic compounds in wine.  You don’t want to drink wine after that has happened to it.  Not only that, since wine bottles are glass, they can magnify the heat effects of light, the greenhouse effect.  Even with temperature control, individual bottles can get cooked.  Cellars tend to be dark.  It’s that easy.

So an architect got carried away, what is the big deal?  Well Food & Wine is supposed to be for people who like wine.  The people who write for it and edit it are supposed to know something about wine.  They should not be showcasing a design that gets something this basic wrong.

There is more though.  This architect, presumably following his client’s interests designed something that makes wine about money and showing off how much his client has.  How much could his wine collector client know or appreciate the wine in his collection when he is willing to let 100 or so of his bottles be ruined?  It certainly didn’t make me think I would like to sit down and enjoy a glass with him/her.

I have an ego.  I am not above showing off.  But when I want to show off with wine I do it by picking a good wine that I think the people I am sharing it with will enjoy.  So here we go, my credo on wine.  Wine is not about money, or class, or being one of a select group.  Wine is about enjoyment.  Enjoy!

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Wine For the Fortnight – Castelvero, Cortese Piemonte, 2010

Posted on March 17, 2012 by admin

Sorry that it has been so much more than a fortnight.  Life has been intruding way too much on my wine drinking and writing.  This post’s wine is about a lesser known white from the Piedmont region of Italy (Piemonte in Italian).  Cortese is the grape used in making Gavi.  What little attention paid to Cortese in the wine press usually goes to Gavi, a wine from south-western Piedmont.  I don’t know why.  Most Gavi is thin, with little flavor and overly acidic.  But don’t write of the variety based on that.  Other parts of Piedmont are doing some good things with the grape.

I first became aware of this when I tasted a very nice one at Castino Luigi in Piedmont a few years ago.  Unfortunately the very good wines from this maker are hard to find in the US.  They did make me keep an eye out for other Cortese though.  Yesterday I drank a nice one from Castevero, made in the Monferato in central Piedmont.

Castelvero, Cortese Piemonte, 2010 is a nice wine at a nice price.  My bottle cost $12 US.  Cortese is not a very aromatic variety but this wine had some aromas of apples and grapefruit.  Those things were in the flavor too but what impressed me was the mineral flavor, almost like a good Chablis.  It had a decent finish and was very well balanced with none of the searing acidity that is all too common in Gavi.  If you wanted a comparison, it was like a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc but with more minerals and less of the citrus flavor they typically have.

It went well with the shrimp dish I had making me think it would work well with most seafood.  I would enjoy trying it with a fresh goat’s milk cheese too.

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